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Switzerland - 2005

Well, I’ve finally returned from Basel, Switzerland, mostly intact. I’ll try to write as much as I remember. Hopefully people won’t be too bored by the details. Since this page is long and photo-intensive, I’ll break it out from the rest of my news page as a stand-alone entity.

Complete Photo-Album: Switzerland - 2005

Switzerland (Part 1) Posted: 28 June 2005

Day 0 (Friday, June 17)

We left on Friday at about 6:30 p.m. where I promptly fell asleep after boarding, and stayed asleep through the entire flight. Apparently I was the only one...

The Baggage Brigade
The Baggage Brigade
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

Day 1 (Saturday, June 18)

Upon landing, we got all our stuff from baggage, including several oversized wardrobe cases and all the drums, and loaded up the bus to head out to the Swissôtel in Zurich, where we would rest, change, and get ready for the day ahead... if only it were that easy. Upon arrival at about 9:30 am, only a few single rooms were ready, which meant the rest of us camped out in the lobby waiting for some rooms to free up. I took the opportunity to walk around the marketplace and take in some of the local scenery, as well as seeing how bad my German was after 16 years. I was able to order a Danish for breakfast, at least... All in all, Zurich was really quite uninteresting from what little I saw of it.

The 'Short Flight of Stairs'
The ‘Short Flight of Stairs’
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

The hotel was a 4 star hotel, but probably would’ve rated 2 diamonds in the AAA guide in the US. It had the basics, but the bathroom was tiny, and I managed to flood the bathroom first thing when I turned on the shower to let it warm up, and got sidetracked, only to come back and realize the shower head was pointed so that it rebounds off the wall and straight out onto the floor... Apparently elsewhere in the hotel Devon (another fifer) did the same exact thing, so I don’t feel that badly.

Have Fun Storming the Castle!
“Have Fun Storming the Castle!”
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

That afternoon, we took the bus to Schaffhausen, where we parked at the train station, warmed up, and got our uniforms and equipment out. We would proceed to march underground through a tunnel into the heart of the town, give a short concert in the marketplace, and then end our impromptu parade at the bottom of some seemingly insignificant steps. We were told we’d go up this ‘short flight of steps’ to the castle where we’d play for a dinner-party celebrating the 100th anniversary of Rotary Club International. What we didn’t know, is once we got to the top of the steps we saw, it turned a corner behind a building and went MUCH further up through a vineyard to the castle. Glad I wasn’t a drummer!

My own personal photo shoot...
My own personal photo shoot...
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

At the top, after sweating a considerable amount, we ended up in a big dark cavernous room in the middle of the castle, where we cooled off and caught our breath. We took the opportunity to try to take some photos with cool lighting effects, with mixed success. Next, we marched outside, across a bridge over a moat/ditch with deer in it, and formed a reception line to welcome the guests of the dinner.

Steven plays with the big guns
Steven plays with the big guns
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

Then... a group picture in the most fantastic rose garden I’ve ever seen, with a backdrop of the town below, and farmland on the hill on the other side of the Rhine valley. We hung out here for a while, and then proceeded to go to the roof of the castle for the dinner. We played a short set, and then ate an excellent dinner complete with wine, “Hell” lager, and wine from the vineyard we’d hiked through.

One last set...
One last set...
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

After determining the cannons on top of the castle were some obscure type that Steven had tried to find but previously with no luck, we took several pictures of him stroking and fondling the weaponry while he told us obscure details about them that even the most informed curator would have no notion of.

At the end of the night, we watched as club members did the official city dance of Schaffhausen (not quite the “Chicken Dance” but sufficiently Oompah) ending with the entire group running laps around the circle in high heels and dinner gowns and suits. (Apparently a Rotary Club tradition).

After losing Dan, (who mysteriously disappeared) we made our way back to the bus, and headed back to Zurich, where we would try to squeeze in some sleep before leaving the next morning for the International Jodlerfest in Arrau, and then on to Basel.

Day 2 (Sunday, June 19)

We shuffled half-dead onto the bus, where we drove to Arrau. When we arrived at our destination, it looked like we’d taken a wrong turn and somehow ended up in some industrial/factory park that was being turned into various night-clubs and bars. While the drummers discussed chatting up the busty blonde in the beer-tent, Pal actually went over and started a conversation to her.

We probably spent 3 hours or so waiting at the parade line-up before anything happened. We got a free bag-lunch of butter-sandwiches, “locherly” (some sort of Swiss ginger-cake stuff with powdered sugar) and seltzer water. The sandwiches weren’t actually “butter” sandwiches - they were ham and cheese and pickles... but they must’ve used a stick of butter per sandwich. And seltzer makes rotten parade-route water when you’re dying and need to chug water fast. (Not to mention it tastes nasty).

We got to talk to some people, got our pictures taken with some alphorn players, and then they gave us a short performance. I gave one of them my MCV pin from my hat, at fellow corps-member prompting, as they gave the guy a beer, but nothing to the lady.

Me with Alphorn Players and the Despicable Gaseous Water
Me with Alphorn Players and
the Despicable Gaseous Water
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

We did the parade, to the most receptive audience I think I’ve ever played for on a parade route. Everywhere we went, “Welcome to Switzerland!” “Thank you for coming!” and wild cheering. The crowd was packed 10 deep the entire route, and was just awesome. At the end, however, I was glad we stopped when we did, because the heat was getting to me, (and everyone else) and we just couldn’t get the water we needed, because it was all the gaseous stuff, and we couldn’t drink it fast enough when we had a break.

On the way back, we got to see cows wearing bells the size (and sound) of garbage cans, along with leather collars embroidered and fringed. The cows did NOT look happy to be wearing such large things around their necks! We also saw a heard of probably 30 goats being driven down the parade route with nothing to keep them in line but 2 very skillful border collies. They also had 2 more up front, possibly “relief” dogs to give the working ones a rest along the route.

Marching in the Jodlerfest Parade
Marching in the Jodlerfest Parade
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

Eventually, we got back on the bus and headed to our final destination at the Swissôtel in Basel, where we barely had time to take a shower before heading off to Yshalle/St. Jakob’s Arena, where we unloaded our equipment into our dressing room. We then had our first rehearsal, to work out the fife & drum exit with the 21st Grey Coat Batallion, the Rhine River Rebels, the Wild Bunch, and the Grainfield Fife & Drum corps. Most of this consisted of standing and taking directions while trying to find our spacing (they actually had a pacing-stick to measure 3 paces... damn Swiss precision! Now Bill will want one...) and playing tunes like “Some Distance from Prussia” and “Downfall of Paris.”

After all that, we went to a barbecue at an adjacent park, where we had Klöpfers, bread, and more gaseous water. (Well, you could have beer too, but if you were a diet soda or plain water drinker, you were screwed for the duration of the trip). The NY Skyliners put on a show for us, while I pondered if one of them had been a drum judge in one of the many fife & drum competitions I participated in as a kid in the NYC surrounding area.

Matt and I decided to take off earlier than the others... when it started getting dark at 10:30 p.m. ... (western edge of the time zone, etc.) We were informed that we had to find our own way back from Yshalle to the hotel, although were given a tram pass good for the week. We made our way to the tram station, and once we figured out where we were, and where we were going, we got on the next tram... to have about a dozen people run and jump on after us. “You assume we actually know where we’re going...” Well, we DID get back to the hotel... luckily for everyone who trusted that we knew where we were going...

Once we got home, we went down to the restaurant to have some ice-cream in the outdoor seating area, and watched as people got off the tram in a daze, looking for the hotel. Then, we retreated after a VERY long day...

Stay “tuned” for more of my adventures in Switzerland - Next episode: Janis’ “trip” to Der Basler Rathouse

...More personal news and events

Personal News - Switzerland (Part 2) Posted: 8 July 2005

Switzerland (Part 2)

The Basel Rathouse
The Basel Rathouse

Day 3 (Monday, June 20) - Jet-lag is in full-effect, but we finally have a morning off, and I was determined to do some sight-seeing. We decide to go down to the marketplace to find some souvenir shops listed at the concierge desk. The first thing we see is the stunning Basle Rathouse (City Hall), standing guard over the marketplace in brilliant red with beautiful paintings and murals all over it. Upon closer inspection, we saw that it was open and free, and began to explore. Beautiful courtyards, intricate paintings, statues, wall-sconces, patterned motifs on the ceiling archways... I saw the fountain pictured to the left, and thought it was too funny, so I took a photo of it head-on. We then went up the 8 short steps next to it and into another courtyard. The courtyard wasn’t too interesting, although there were some interesting gargoyle things poking out of an enormous wall. There were steps on the other end to go to the top, but we decided to head back and see some other things. So, I continued taking pictures of the walls... the ceiling...

*thud* *thud* *thud* Down I went... the 8 short, but flat steps the same color as the rest of the stone floor, landing in a pile near the aforementioned fountain pictured to the left. I managed to “save the camera” (much to many of my friend’s taunts - “Sure... save the camera!”) but at the expense of the cushioning of my right hand. (Well, the camera was around my neck... I could get it out of the way when I fell on my face, or end up sending a rib through my lung...) So, all told, I ended up with stair-bruises and scrapes across both knees, a stair tread bruise across the belly, a scraped elbow, a scraped chin, and the possibility of a broken metacarpal or two in my right hand where the camera and the floor collided with my hand...

A fountain? Or a mirror that sees into the future?

A fountain? Or a mirror that
sees into the future?

The good news is that I could wiggle my fingers. I could still play! And after getting my wind back (Matt was right there by my side being incredibly good through this, and showing great concern for me, rather than his camera, by the way...) I determined I’d be able to march, too. So, at least nobody in the corps would injure me for not being able to play the Yshalle Tattoo shows on top of my mishap... (although I was deemed by several sources to need mothering and hand-holding so I wouldn’t fall on my face for the rest of the trip.) Being fiercely independent, this is usually considered a bad thing by me... although I did nearly fall out of a church bell-tower later on... but let me get back to Monday. ;-)

That afternoon, we headed back to St. Jakob’s for more practice, which mostly was held outside, as they were messing with the lighting rigging inside for the show. My hand was a bit swollen up, but I was able to play the whole practice, and I think having it elevated up to my face-level helped the swelling go down, and my fingers loosen up. Playing didn’t hurt... it was everything else. Seathrun looked at it, agreed that I’d live for a week without an x-ray, and told me to ice it as soon as I could. Which would present a new quandary - where to get ice on a continent that didn’t believe in refrigeration, air conditioning, or ice?

But, until that quest, we went to a place downtown where they had a free dinner for us in a very nice hall. Unfortunately, I don’t have a picture with it, as I could barely hold my hand, much less my camera and fifes and stuff. (And I hadn’t expected dinner to be anything special). Apparently the hall is where they have some local Basel fife & drum competitions, but it was just stunning. We felt like we were in a castle dining room, instead of above the down-town streets below.

Dinner consisted of spaghetti and some other uninteresting things, but Matt has decided he likes eating in Europe. They feed him spaghetti with the option of no sauce, they don’t put mayonnaise on everything, and even if you don’t speak the language, they get your order right, no matter how weird it is. And, as uninteresting as spaghetti was, I have to say as someone who’s ultra sensitive to salmonella poisoning and reacts to just about any food served at any restaurant in the U.S., I never had one single episode of indigestion, food poisoning, or any other single unpleasant thing gastrointestinal while dining in Europe.

Oh! And the breakfasts! I, for one, am not one who eats breakfast, mostly because there isn’t anything on the American breakfast menu I can eat! Everything is bacon and sausage and grease, fat, and more grease, or has high concentration of eggs in it. (Which I seem to be allergic to.) But we had the options of fresh fruit (not that uncommon) and croissants. I’ve decided my new favorite breakfast food is croissants with raspberry marmalade.

In any case, my weak and broken 9th grade German came in handy with the night crew at the hotel, trying to find ice for my hand. “Entschuldigung - Ich möchte Eis für mein Hand haben, bitte. Es ist brechts.” And if there’s any question, showing them my severely bruised hand got the point across.

A gentleman looking very French alongside his meat on a stick.  Perhaps he's thinking "Silly American Tourist!"
A gentleman looking very French alongside
his meat on a stick. Perhaps he’s thinking:
“Silly American tourist!”

Day 4 (Tuesday, June 21) - The next day was more of the same - rehearsals, standing on concrete for long periods of time, etc. - but this time in uniform! They needed to adjust the lighting, so we had to put on the wool, which wasn’t fun. Too friggin’ hot. Some people went to the pool next door in the hour or so we had at lunch time, but Matt and I optioned to walk to the mall and get some lunch. This was an adventure, as I had to find food in the grocery store Matt would eat. There are about 45 different types of pork-products you can have at the deli, but I only saw one turkey. I got a small loaf of bread, some cola-light, and little ice-cream cups to top it off. So, we had our own little picnic lunch in the cafe-seating... outside of a grocery store... in an indoor mall... while we watched as people smoked and walked their dogs around inside.

The City Hall in Mulhouse, France

Place de la Réunion

The City Hall in Mulhouse, France

I have to say, it was a little shocking to see that dogs were allowed in stores and food establishments, but every single dog I saw was incredibly well-behaved and quiet. I didn’t see any cats while I was over there, either. And as for every other European smoking, I can’t say that I observed that. Certainly it seemed on the whole, more people smoked, but they didn’t smoke as much or as frequently as Americans. They generally kept the smoking to outdoors, and only while they were standing and socializing. They tried to keep their cigarettes away from the crowds, and tried to blow the smoke up and away. I dunno... it just seemed like they were more considerate smokers.

After practice, 13 of us decided to take an adventure into Mulhouse, France. Since Basel lies near the French and German borders, this only consisted of a 30 minute train-ride. We got to the main train station, and walked down the lines, and saw spiffy trains, keeping an eye out for track 35, where our train would be. Surely that couldn’t be it... didn’t they decommission something in that shape? Inside, once again, no air-conditioning. Orange vinyl seats with almond baked-glaze walls like off a kitchen appliance in the 1960’s. I vaguely remember trains looking like this... when I was a baby...

St. Etienne - Mulhouse, France
St. Etienne - Mulhouse, France

We had our passports at the ready, but there wasn’t a single person to look or care once we got to Mulhouse. The train station was under construction, and we had no idea where we were, or where we were going. So, we decided to follow the gothic steeple we could see over buildings to the center of town. (Which was a good idea).

Eventually, we made it to the marketplace, which was an impressive sight. Complete with a large gothic cathedral, a carousel, and a beautiful rathouse/City-Hall (dunno what it’s called in France) just begging to have those stairs more closely inspected... but maybe I’ll pass. I’m trying to take in the sights and take pictures, but I was lagging behind the other 12 people in our group.

How appropriate... :-)

How appropriate... :-)

We wandered through the streets looking for a restaurant - I don’ t know if people had a specific destination or not, we were just following along taking in what we could. When I caught up to the rest of them, they were standing in front of an appropriately-named store labeled “Stock Americains.”

While wandering farther from the marketplace, we came to a Franciscan church, which had a restaurant with cafe-seating enough to seat our motley bunch. I managed to not only witness, but induce our first experience of the stereotypical French temper, when our (first) waitress tried to take our drink orders, and ultimately ended up slamming her order pad down on the table and leaving in a huff at our inability to speak French. We then got another waitress who served us for the rest of the night, and was much more patient, although we tried to apologize for our lack of French. At later thought, it occurs to me that she and the gentleman waiting on us may have been the owners of the establishment. “Your money is good here!” So were the frog’s legs! Hey - when in France...

Little nude sunbathers on my plate!

Little nude sunbathers on my plate!

I decided frogs’ legs look like little nude sunbathers. And you know how you hear “Frog legs taste just like chicken!” but in the back of your mind you figure there must be some subtle taste that’s more frog than chicken? Well... they taste... just like chicken! I didn’t catch a hint of anything else. They’re a little less convenient to eat than chicken, as there’s only so much meat on those little bones, but it did, indeed, taste like chicken. (At least it wasn’t some sort of pork sausage... there’s only so much of that you can eat in a week!)

St. Etienne at night

St. Etienne at night

After an incredible dessert (which I have no idea what it was, but the waitress recommended it) we headed back through absolute mobs of people in the Marketplace and surrounding areas. This was at almost 11pm, and the place was packed! Stages with cover-bands set up everywhere, people milling about, families out with the baby strollers... the place was utterly hopping, and this was... a Tuesday? Do these people work during the day? We did notice, however, that the daylight lasted much longer than it does at home. They’re on the western edge of the time-zone, and it was near summer solstice, so dusk didn’t start until about 10:30 pm.

I tried getting some pictures of the cathedral, but without a tripod to keep me stable, most of them came out blurry, except this one where I was blocked against a palm-tree-trunk. Remember what I was saying about it being hot? When’s the last time you saw someone put a palm tree outside in New England?

We got back to the Swissôtel at around midnight, and I went on another mission to find ice for my hand. It was becoming quite colorful at this point — somewhere between Frankenstein and Blue Man group.

Stay “tuned” for more of my adventures in Switzerland - Next episode: Heat Stroke in the Ice Rink

...More personal news and events

Personal News - Switzerland (Part 3) Posted: 25 August 2005

Switzerland (Part 3)

Dress Rehearsal of the Finale
Dress Rehearsal of the Finale
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

Day 5 (Wednesday, June 22) -Wednesday started bright ‘n early with a practice in a giant building or warehouse across the street from the hotel. We’re not sure what it was, just that it was under construction, and we had to hoof up 3 flights of stairs schlepping all our schtuff. It was no Schaffhausen, but I’m convinced when making up our itinerary they said, “Let’s see how many stairs we can get the fat Americans to do while they’re here.” To be fair, the Dutch, German and Danish bands had to climb up too.

We practiced some of the finale pieces we were to perform during the main show, which resulted in a wee bit of frustration and rewriting of parts. This continued throughout the afternoon, until we went to the ice rink to do a lighting-rehearsal. I guess our sparkly-white coats were too much, because they decided we should be washed in red lights. We practiced the finale with the other bands, and stood for a really long time on the concrete - roasting. One would think that an ice-rink would have some sort of refrigeration or air-conditioning, but no such luck.

Matt was in the upper deck taking photos as best as he could through the enveloping heat and humidity, ready to drop after hauling heavy camera equipment up and down stairs where all the heat rose from the floor - and I’ve gotta tell you, the floor wasn’t all that cool, either. We peeled our sweat-drenched uniforms from our bodies late that evening, and eventually headed back to the hotel, so it could all start over again the next morning.

Drum & Death Mask
Drum & Death Mask

Day 6 (Thursday, June 23) -Thursday actually started with a “morning off,” which I took advantage of by... “returning to the scene” - the Rathouse. I’m actually glad I did. While I meant to take a picture of the steps I fell down, I got sidetracked and ended up on the 3rd floor, which came out... at street-level in the back! Apparently this is where they “old town” part of the city I was looking for was - Münsterplatz. This is where the Münster Cathedral was, as well - a cathedral that was ironically protestant. It looked like it was undergoing some renovation, but it was the interesting multi-colored tile roof you could see from anywhere in the city that drew me to seek it out in the first place.

I wandered inside and around it, until I got to the cloisters and gardens, where there were many interesting things. I thought the drum with the death-mask was most intriguing - related to Fasnacht, no-doubt. One reference says it’s a mediaeval ritual: the dance of death (Totentanz) and the masquerade (Mummenschanz). I admit, I have not done my fife & drum duty by learning much about Fasnacht, despite my friends’ insistence. I might like to go see it some time, but I really have no desire to participate and play in a clique at 4:30 in the morning wearing a papier-mâché mask I can’t see out of up and down cobble-stone streets.

One of these things is not like the others...

‘elp! ‘elp!
Photo By: Matthew M. Lug

That evening, we had our opening show for the Yshalle Tattoo, and only 4 people went down in the finale (ironically, none of us woolen-clad warriors who are conditioned to heat-exhaustion) and a few audience members in ambulances due to the heat. Matt said he couldn’t take many photos because there wasn’t enough light to use a telephoto lens through the enormous amounts of steam evaporating from the audience. For at least the first performance, Britain was in distress, until our resident “Horatio Hornblower” fan righted the flag.

Stay “tuned” for more of my adventures in Switzerland - Next episode: 8’ Tower bells and Janis’ inattentiveness to time ...

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