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Foster Home Evaluation and Tips regarding Aussies, Dogs & "Champ" - ARPH # 10158

ARPH Foster Home: Janis Kenderdine

Summary

We still maintain that Champ is an absolute sweetheart. He's fairly low-key for an Aussie, but is still a puppy and likes to play, and is extremely affectionate. His rougher play is coming out, partly because he's settling in, partly because Sunny is getting jealous and bossy, and picking on him. However, he won over the hearts of 90-year old grandparents, non-dog-people and a 3-year old at Christmas.

His former life

We still haven't received any further information from the former family. A call to the ranch from the "forever home" may be in order.

Toys/Crate

While he's allegedly chewed furniture at the former house (where there were no observable dog-toys) he has not chewed any furniture here, although he does exhibit some tendencies to obsessively rip/tear at his toys unless redirected. Plush toys or thin rubber/vinyl toys won't last long - hard rubber toys and rawhide will probably be the best, as long as the rawhide/bones are not while other dogs around - he has shown some "guarding" behavior towards other dogs when a "yummy treat" is around. But he enjoys playing with the toys with other dogs. We've worked on teaching him to "drop-it" when fetching toys and bringing them to you. "Tug" is discouraged with people, as it promotes rough play. If he doesn't drop the toys, offer a "trade off" for bringing it to you and dropping it. (i.e. he gets a treat in trade if he drops it).

The general rule is keep an eye on him while he's playing with his toys to make sure he's not ingesting anything he shouldn't. Also, don't let him chew more than one rawhide "flip/chip", and don't let him work on a rawhide or bone for more than an hour, as (in my experience with other dogs) he'll be in a mad dash for the bathroom or will possibly throw it up.

The "puppy kong" is a good teething toy, and seems safe to leave in his crate. So far he hasn't been able to tear it apart, and it's safe to chew on. We put a milkbone or old-mother-hubbard treat in it, have him go in his crate and sit down, and then toss in the kong with treat in for him. He will chomp the exposed end of the treat, but it will keep him somewhat occupied while you "make your escape", and give him something to do while he's in his crate and not asleep. A kong treat-ball may be enjoyable to him too, although this could be somewhat noisy in the crate (in an apartment). You'll ultimately have to fish out the rest of the treat for him when you come home.

Sleeping and more about the crate

I never leave him in the crate when someone's at home, unless it's bedtime. I don't use it for punishment, and I don't keep him in there if there's a way to have him out loose (and semi-supervised). I had to crate him more than I'd have liked over Christmas, because it was difficult to keep Sunny and Champ separated (so they wouldn't run amok around the house knocking elderly people over), and Sunny learned this past summer how to open the doorknobs in that house... But generally, don't make it a "cage" or a place they resent - it should be their "den" and they should otherwise be around people when possible. He's pretty trustworthy loose (with people around), but keep an eye on him anyway.

If you have an old blanket (you don't mind potentially getting chewed), throw it over the top of the crate to give him some privacy and trap in some warmth at night. I would not suggest putting a blanket or dog bed in the crate until he has completely out-grown the chewing. You can experiment with some old towels or blankets (supervised) and if he starts chewing them, take them out. But you don't want him ingesting string/thread, or it could get tangled in his insides and give him problems.

If you wish for him to sleep loose in the room with you, I would start with him in the crate for the first few nights, and then let him out to sleep on the floor or in the open crate in the closed bedroom with you. In any case, I would not allow him on the bed for at least the first 2 weeks (if you'd ultimately like him to sleep on the bed with you) as allowing a dog on the bed is a sign of acceptance and status in the pack, and they will get haughty with the priviledge - so make sure they've accepted you as alpha-dog first and you have "control" in the relationship, or they'll take the bed-priviledge as the OK to boss you around! And also, be aware that having them sleep on the bed with you can not only be an issue for bed-mates, but it can be hard to roll-over/move with a boulder on the bed, you may have to fight for your pillow at night, and if they're carrying any fleas/ticks or parasites, they could be bringing them onto the bed with you. So take all that into consideration before inviting them up.

Bodily functions and visiting people's homes...

So far, Champ has proven to have a cast-iron stomach, and has never pooped or barfed indoors - and the 2 times he piddled indoors was "marking" behavior before he was fixed. He marked in our house (twice) the very first day we brought him home, immediately after coming inside... but hasn't since, and (since he's now fixed) he didn't do any such thing in the 2 other houses we brought him to over Christmas. However - watch and be aware when bringing him into a new home - make sure he goes outside first, and keep an eye on him. This is usually the time they'll do it (as Sunny and Cinnamon have taught me), as you'll be preoccupied saying your hello's and bringing stuff in from the car, and not watching them!

Therapy-dog potential

Champ is a very loving boy, and would potentially make a very good therapy dog. He is easy-going, and not bothered by sights, sounds, poking or prodding. He is very soft, affectionate and seeks attention, but not clingy "velcro" per-se. Champ enjoys going for drives in the car, and seems to like other dogs. He won the hearts of three 90-year old grandparents, several 60-something retirees, non-dog-people, his former neighbors, store-Santa, the groomers, and my 3-year old niece (whom as far as I know is the first child he's ever met). She squealed her recorder and other obnoxious things at him, but he was very good and remained calm. She exclaimed, "This is my favorite dog! Common' Champ!" and he trotted after her for the rest of the afternoon.

He doesn't care for my violin or fife playing, but he's learned to accept them, which shows he'll readily accept desensitization to anything that makes him uncomfortable. He will need some work around wheelchairs and motion, however, as he did show signs of wanting to "play" with the wheeled chair. (This is usually covered in a therapy dog class, or you can bring him to the park and have him walk near empty swings set into motion, etc.) Also, Home Depot allows well-behaved, vaccinated dogs, and they usually have wheelchairs near the exit you (the owner) can "play" with and sit in to get the dog used to it. This is what I did as "homework" with Sunny, since Matt and I attended therapy dog classes with Cinnamon, but not her.

Vetting

Vetting is current, and he's deemed healthy. Neutering was completed on Nov. 21st. He was also microchipped at this time, although the microchipping needs to be registered by the "forever home". He's approximately 50 lbs.

Areas for improvement

Champ has average Aussie intelligence, learning commands fairly easily, but is prone to distraction, and will need to work on his focus (on the owner/trainer). This is possibly because he was largely ignored by people, or because there was always a dog around to take cues from, but I had a similar problem with Sunny until we started going to agility classes and she learned she had to watch me. Taking him to a class of some sort (obedience, agility, etc.) will probably help him, as well as working with him while there aren't other dogs/distractions around.

He's shown some obsessive traits (tearing at toys, fixating on something across the room, etc.) which is partly due to being a herding dog, and partly due to being male. But as Cesar Milan (The "Dog Whisperer") says, you can physically make that dog sit, lie down, etc., but as long as he's concentrating/fixated at what has his attention, he's not listening or "with" you. This is very much the issue with Champ - breaking his concentration on something outside where his focus should be (you the owner/trainer) and redirecting it onto you.

His leash skills will need some work. I'm admittedly not a good leash-trainer, and we don't go for walks as often as we should. If you don't learn about it in obedience class, a head-collar should help.

Routine/bathroom habits

Champ wakes up with the household at about 8am, and can either remain in the crate while people shower and dress, or is happier to follow you into the bathroom while you go in the shower. He's proven himself trustworthy to be left "unattended" on the other side of the shower curtain while you're in the shower. He'll sometimes poke his nose around the curtain, but otherwise lies down to wait.

Then he is let out, and goes outside to go to the bathroom. Upon returning, he remains with his people while they eat breakfast and get ready to go to work, and we do some training/play with him. He is then returned to his crate (at about 9) where he willingly goes in and sits down while we close the door (and then reward him with a milkbone in his puppy kong). He's usually quiet with the kong, although he's been known to whine and yip a bit while stuck in the crate - but it's not a full-out bark or howl, or something loud. We usually return from work at about 5:30, and let him out of the crate immediately.

Dinner is once a day at 5:30pm - 2 heaping cups of Purina One lamb & rice. Champ has been trained to 'sit' and wait patiently for his dinner to be placed in front of him, and is not allowed to have it until we give him the release command "Ok" and point at the food.

Bathroom break follows dinner. Male dogs (from my experience) have pretty good bladders, so you could probably feed him first and then bring him out once (as soon as he's finished) for all his functions. Sunny has a smaller bladder and likes to go out multiple times a day, but Champ and Cinnamon were usually fine only going 2 or 3 times a day. Champ goes #1 and #2 in the morning, and immediately following dinner. He might go #2 at other times too, but these are the ones we looked for. He'll definitely pee every opportunity he goes out though.

Some training, play and companionship until bedtime about 11pm. Either one of us will do some minor training with him. Basic obedience commands are used throughout the day - sit, stay, down, come. All members of the household should use the same commands and hand-signals.

Grooming/Maintenance

Champ has his front dew-claws, which means you have to pay special attention when having his nails trimmed. These claws do not touch the pavement, and therefor do not get worn down like the rest of his nails - so he could unintentionally scratch someone, they could get snagged on something and injure him, or they can grow long without being noticed. It is important they get clipped, because otherwise they could grow so long that they curl back into his foot, hurt him, get infected, etc.

He could use a teeth-cleaning, as he's got some plaque. Either have the groomer do it when he goes in, or get into the habit of brushing his teeth. I'm bad about brushing their teeth (myself); I usually get my dogs' teeth cleaned every 2 years by the vet, but it's expensive and they have to be put under general anesthesia for it (which is potentially dangerous). Natural or beef-basted bones are also good for scraping and tearing and keeping teeth cleaned - but again, make sure there aren't other dogs around, or he may "guard" his bone. (And don't let him have it for more than an hour, or he'll be "loose" the next few days and you'll be running him out the door every few minutes.) If you follow the "one hour rule" and make sure he's not eating large chips off the bone (that he could choke on or have difficulty passing), bones are excellent for expending energy, getting nutrients, scraping teeth, and focusing on something they're allowed to have.

His coat seems pretty easy to take care of, but he will shed, and he has exhibited some minor matting behind the ears - so keep an eye out for that, and cut any you find out with scissors. But overall, his coat's pretty easy. Grooming is not only good for his coat and skin, but it's relaxing and a bonding experience, and a good way to check for ticks, lumps, injuries, etc. You can usually sit on the floor in front of the t.v. at night and do it.

Forever-home (immediate) to-do:

• Get him licensed
• Send in microchip registration (so he's in the database)
• Find a vet, or at least (until he's due for vaccinations/check-up) a 24/7 Animal Hospital nearby for any possible emergencies and put the phone number in your phone or on the refrigerator

Dinner:

• 2 heaping cups of Purina One Lamb & Rice (You can change this, but mix the old food with the new for a week or so, so it doesn't shock his system.)
• 2 cups may not be enough for his size if you don't feed him as many treats as we do, and depending on his activity level. But a skinny dog is ALWAYS better than an overweight one.

Make him sit and wait patiently for his food to be placed in front of him, and don't let him have it until you give the distinct command "OK" and point at the food. This is a really easy way to establish and maintain your roll as "alpha-dog" - i.e. "the one in control of the food is the one who leads the pack." If he starts getting a little anticipatory or bossy, take the dish away and keep him from it until he sits nicely again. Do this as many times as it takes to get it right - he'll comply pretty quickly. But some days may be easier than others right now, as he's at a stage of development (adolescence) where he wants to challenge authority and vies for his position as "top dog".

Medications & Supplements :

Most of this is up to you, but this is what I personally do/would do:

I'd suggest putting him on "Interceptor" over the winter-months (Nov-Mar) if he goes to the dog-park or other public-dog bathrooms, as this will prevent worms. Then use "Sentinel" (the same as Interceptor, but with flea control, too) in the summer-months (Apr-Oct). Both take care of heartworm prevention, as well as whip-worms and other worms they could pick up from using the public bathroom. The flea-control in Sentinel renders fleas infertile, so they can't lay eggs and populate your house. However, it won't prevent them from jumping on them in the first place, and doesn't do anything for ticks. Both are once-a-month pills.

Champ was on HeartGuard but I strongly advise asking the vet to put him on Interceptor/Sentinel, if not for worm preventative reasons, then because HeartGuard could potentially be fatal to 1 out of 3 Australian Shepherds (apparently this isn't on their regularly circulated "list" of breeds with this condition, although it's been fairly well-documented for the last few years - so make sure your vet knows). In a normal usage scenario, it's probably ok, but sometimes they give large amounts of the active ingredient Ivermectin to treat mange and other conditions. Interceptor and Sentinel is slightly more expensive, but I don't have any complaints - I've been using them for 12 years now. (And Heartguard only prevents heartworm - doesn't do any other worm-prevention). We started on it because Cinnamon picked up a mild case of whip-worms at the apartment public doggy toilet...

I'd suggest "Advantix" for the summer-months (April-October or later, if it's a warm year) as a topical to prevent fleas and ticks from jumping on him in the first place. This is a topical medication you put between their shoulderblades and on their rump once a month. It's easy to do, and Advantix is very effective. Also, unlike other types of topicals, it doesn't make my skin itchy or burn after touching him.

Also, you may want to get him a multi-vitamin. It's an owner-preference thing. Back when I couldn't afford it, I didn't do it with Cinnamon, and I doubt it could have prevented the bone-cancer that ultimately got him, but otherwise he was disgustingly healthy without getting vitamins until his was 10. I give them to Sunny daily, but I can afford to treat her to a lot more things than I could give Cinnamon when he was younger.

Also, Cinnamon had dry-skin and allergies that later turned into dandruff and itchy-skin issues when he was about 7, and adding Biotin and Foster & Smith (http://www.fostersmith.com) Vitacoat supplements to his food worked wonders. Sunny hasn't had any issues, but since I had so much left from Cinnamon, I've been using it on her food, and it's softened up her coat considerably. (It used to be kind of wiry - even as a puppy, she wasn't "soft" but now people liken her to bunny-fur). Champ seems to have pretty healthy skin & coat (and has the same bunny fur without supplements) , but it helps a little with shedding, and again, it's a vitamin thing, so it's up to the forever home to decide what they want to do.

2-Week Evaluation/Impressions

--Janis Kenderdine
ARPH Foster Home